TB96 LAB
Fabric Engineering
We don't source fabrics. We develop them.
Every True Base 96 garment begins as a technical problem: how to achieve maximum density, softness, and structural integrity — simultaneously. Our answer is a vertically integrated process that controls every variable from fiber selection to final hand inspection.

From Fiber to Form
Three Decades of Manufacturing DNA
In 1996, we started with a simple question: why do premium garments lose their shape after a few washes? The answer wasn't in the sewing — it was in the fabric itself. We began developing our own knit structures, testing yarn densities, and refining finishing techniques until every variable was under our control.
Thirty years later, our production facility operates with fully modernized machinery, waterless ozone finishing, and a quality control process that touches every single garment by hand. We don't outsource. We don't compromise. We engineer.
Technology Map
The Fabric Architecture
Seven proprietary fabric families across five collections — from 180gsm next-to-skin lyocell to 540gsm ozone-treated diagonal. Each developed in-house, each solving a different engineering problem.
Interlock
POLO · TEEA double-knit construction where two layers of fabric are locked together face-to-face. The result is a textile with no visible reverse side — both surfaces are smooth, dense, and identical. This is why our polos and tees have structural weight without bulk. In the Ozone collection, this same interlock is surface-aged with ozone gas to produce a denim-effect patina — zero water, zero chemical discharge.
50/2 Mercerized Pima Cotton
Double-plate knitting
340gsm density
Bio-polished finish
3-Yarn Diagonal
SWEATSHIRT · HOODIE · OVERSHIRTA 3-thread construction where diagonal loops on the inner face create natural insulation without brushing. Traditional fleece is brushed to create warmth — but brushing weakens the yarn and causes pilling over time. Our unbrushed diagonal knit achieves the same warmth without ever touching a brush. Scaled from 480gsm for sweatshirts to 540gsm for overshirts. In the Ozone collection, the same construction gains vintage character through ozone chamber treatment.
3-thread diagonal construction
Brushing-free insulation
480–540gsm range
Articulated seam engineering
Lyocell Blend
ESSENTIALSLyocell fibers blended with cotton and Lycra for a next-to-skin softness and stretch that doesn't degrade after washing. Lyocell's closed-loop production process uses 10–20x less water than conventional cotton processing.
Lyocell fiber
Cotton & Lycra for structure
Jacquard waistband detailing
Closed-loop fiber production
Performance Technical
TEE · POLO · JACKET · JOGGERFour constructions engineered for movement. Quick-dry polyamide-cotton jersey for tees (200gsm). Performance piqué with DWR coating for polos (260gsm). Wind-resistant bonded jersey for outerwear (320gsm). Anti-pill fleece with articulated paneling for joggers (280gsm). Every Onyx fabric receives DWR (durable water repellent) treatment and is built for 4-way stretch.
Polyamide-Cotton Tech Blend
DWR Moisture Treatment
4-Way Stretch Construction
Sealed & Articulated Seaming
Supima & Double-Mercerized Piqué
TEE · POLOAmerican-grown Supima cotton, compact-spun to eliminate surface fiber and maximize luster. For tees, 220gsm compact-spun Supima creates a luminous, almost pearlescent surface. For polos, the yarn is double-mercerized — two passes under tension through alkaline baths — producing a silk-like sheen that standard mercerization cannot achieve. The 300gsm piqué weighs nearly double a typical polo fabric.
Supima Extra-Long Staple
Compact Spinning (zero loose fiber)
Double Mercerization (Polo)
Hand-Finished Hem + Cover Stitch
Milano Stitch & Double-Face
JACKET · TROUSERMilano stitch creates a surface that reads as woven but moves as knit — the flat, architectural face of a tailored jacket with the drape of fine knitwear. For trousers, a double-face construction presents a suiting-quality exterior while the interior is an entirely different, softer knit. Both use merino-Pima blends for dimensional stability that dry cleaning can't improve upon.
Merino-Pima Blend
Milano Stitch (Jacket)
Double-Face Construction (Trouser)
Tape-Reinforced Seams
Cashmere Atelier
POLO · OVERSHIRT · KNITWEAR · TROUSERFour construction methods, one principle: build from the fiber up. 2-ply cashmere-Pima for polos — each ply individually spun then twisted for density (380gsm). Double-faced cashmere-merino for overshirts — two distinct surfaces bonded at edge-bound seams (520gsm). Cashmere-silk-cotton tri-blend for knitwear — fully-fashioned on whole-garment machines. Prestige scuba for trousers — a self-holding knit that drapes like suiting without lining (400gsm).
2-Ply Cashmere-Pima (380gsm)
Double-Faced Cashmere-Merino (520gsm)
Tri-Blend Fully-Fashioned Knit
Prestige Scuba Structure (400gsm)
The Foundation
Why 50/2?
The "50/2" designation means: Ne 50 yarn count (extremely fine fibers) twisted as 2-ply. This is the sweet spot where strength meets softness. A single-ply yarn of the same count would be too fragile. A thicker yarn would sacrifice the silk-like hand feel.
We then mercerize this yarn — a chemical bath under tension that permanently swells each fiber, increasing luster, strength, and dye uptake by up to 30%. The result is a yarn that looks brighter, feels smoother, and lasts longer than any untreated alternative.
Ne 50/2
Yarn Count
2-Ply Twisted
Ply
100% Pima Cotton
Fiber
Mercerized
Treatment
35–40mm (Extra Long Staple)
Staple Length
+30% post-mercerization
Luster Gain
Side by Side
Fabric Comparison
| Property | Interlock | Diagonal | Lyocell | Performance | Supima / Piqué | Milano / DF | Cashmere |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Collection | Base · Ozone | Base · Ozone | Base | Onyx | Signal | Signal | Form |
| Weight (GSM) | 340 | 480–540 | 180 | 200–320 | 220–300 | 320–400 | 380–520 |
| Construction | Double-knit interlocked | 3-thread diagonal | Single jersey | Bonded tech jersey | Compact-spun piqué | Milano / double-face | Multi-method atelier |
| Primary Fiber | Pima Cotton | Pima Cotton | Lyocell / Cotton | Polyamide-Cotton | Supima Cotton | Merino-Pima | Cashmere blends |
| Feel | Dense, smooth | Architectural, warm | Silky, light | Technical, stretch | Luminous, refined | Tailored drape | Ultra-soft, weighted |
| Pilling Resistance | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★☆ |
| Shape Retention | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★☆ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ | ★★★★★ |
Quality Control
Precision Standards
8–14
Hand Inspections
Each garment passes through 8 to 14 individual hand inspection checkpoints before it earns the True Base 96 label.
100%
Traceability
From Pima fields to your hands — every fiber is traceable through our vertically integrated supply chain.
30+
Years of Refinement
Three decades of manufacturing culture, distilled into every stitch. This isn't our first generation of product. It's our best.
Performance Engineering
The Onyx Collection
Where engineering meets movement. Quick-dry, moisture-wicking, wind-resistant — every Onyx piece is built for those who demand technical precision from their wardrobe.
Explore Onyx CollectionZero Water Finishing
Ozone Technology
Our waterless ozone finish process eliminates water entirely from garment finishing. Discover how air creates texture, character, and permanence.
Learn About Ozone“We don't design clothes. We solve textile problems.”
True Base 96