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True Base 96True Base

TB96 LAB

Fabric Engineering

We don't source fabrics. We develop them.

Every True Base 96 garment begins as a technical problem: how to achieve maximum density, softness, and structural integrity — simultaneously. Our answer is a vertically integrated process that controls every variable from fiber selection to final hand inspection.

Technical blueprint

From Fiber to Form

Three Decades of Manufacturing DNA

In 1996, we started with a simple question: why do premium garments lose their shape after a few washes? The answer wasn't in the sewing — it was in the fabric itself. We began developing our own knit structures, testing yarn densities, and refining finishing techniques until every variable was under our control.

Thirty years later, our production facility operates with fully modernized machinery, waterless ozone finishing, and a quality control process that touches every single garment by hand. We don't outsource. We don't compromise. We engineer.

Technology Map

The Fabric Architecture

Seven proprietary fabric families across five collections — from 180gsm next-to-skin lyocell to 540gsm ozone-treated diagonal. Each developed in-house, each solving a different engineering problem.

Foundation — Base & Ozone

Interlock

POLO · TEE
340 GSM

A double-knit construction where two layers of fabric are locked together face-to-face. The result is a textile with no visible reverse side — both surfaces are smooth, dense, and identical. This is why our polos and tees have structural weight without bulk. In the Ozone collection, this same interlock is surface-aged with ozone gas to produce a denim-effect patina — zero water, zero chemical discharge.

50/2 Mercerized Pima Cotton

Double-plate knitting

340gsm density

Bio-polished finish

3-Yarn Diagonal

SWEATSHIRT · HOODIE · OVERSHIRT
480–540 GSM

A 3-thread construction where diagonal loops on the inner face create natural insulation without brushing. Traditional fleece is brushed to create warmth — but brushing weakens the yarn and causes pilling over time. Our unbrushed diagonal knit achieves the same warmth without ever touching a brush. Scaled from 480gsm for sweatshirts to 540gsm for overshirts. In the Ozone collection, the same construction gains vintage character through ozone chamber treatment.

3-thread diagonal construction

Brushing-free insulation

480–540gsm range

Articulated seam engineering

Lyocell Blend

ESSENTIALS
180 GSM

Lyocell fibers blended with cotton and Lycra for a next-to-skin softness and stretch that doesn't degrade after washing. Lyocell's closed-loop production process uses 10–20x less water than conventional cotton processing.

Lyocell fiber

Cotton & Lycra for structure

Jacquard waistband detailing

Closed-loop fiber production

Performance — Onyx

Performance Technical

TEE · POLO · JACKET · JOGGER
200–320 GSM

Four constructions engineered for movement. Quick-dry polyamide-cotton jersey for tees (200gsm). Performance piqué with DWR coating for polos (260gsm). Wind-resistant bonded jersey for outerwear (320gsm). Anti-pill fleece with articulated paneling for joggers (280gsm). Every Onyx fabric receives DWR (durable water repellent) treatment and is built for 4-way stretch.

Polyamide-Cotton Tech Blend

DWR Moisture Treatment

4-Way Stretch Construction

Sealed & Articulated Seaming

Precision — Signal

Supima & Double-Mercerized Piqué

TEE · POLO
220–300 GSM

American-grown Supima cotton, compact-spun to eliminate surface fiber and maximize luster. For tees, 220gsm compact-spun Supima creates a luminous, almost pearlescent surface. For polos, the yarn is double-mercerized — two passes under tension through alkaline baths — producing a silk-like sheen that standard mercerization cannot achieve. The 300gsm piqué weighs nearly double a typical polo fabric.

Supima Extra-Long Staple

Compact Spinning (zero loose fiber)

Double Mercerization (Polo)

Hand-Finished Hem + Cover Stitch

Milano Stitch & Double-Face

JACKET · TROUSER
320–400 GSM

Milano stitch creates a surface that reads as woven but moves as knit — the flat, architectural face of a tailored jacket with the drape of fine knitwear. For trousers, a double-face construction presents a suiting-quality exterior while the interior is an entirely different, softer knit. Both use merino-Pima blends for dimensional stability that dry cleaning can't improve upon.

Merino-Pima Blend

Milano Stitch (Jacket)

Double-Face Construction (Trouser)

Tape-Reinforced Seams

Atelier — Form

Cashmere Atelier

POLO · OVERSHIRT · KNITWEAR · TROUSER
380–520 GSM

Four construction methods, one principle: build from the fiber up. 2-ply cashmere-Pima for polos — each ply individually spun then twisted for density (380gsm). Double-faced cashmere-merino for overshirts — two distinct surfaces bonded at edge-bound seams (520gsm). Cashmere-silk-cotton tri-blend for knitwear — fully-fashioned on whole-garment machines. Prestige scuba for trousers — a self-holding knit that drapes like suiting without lining (400gsm).

2-Ply Cashmere-Pima (380gsm)

Double-Faced Cashmere-Merino (520gsm)

Tri-Blend Fully-Fashioned Knit

Prestige Scuba Structure (400gsm)

The Foundation

Why 50/2?

The "50/2" designation means: Ne 50 yarn count (extremely fine fibers) twisted as 2-ply. This is the sweet spot where strength meets softness. A single-ply yarn of the same count would be too fragile. A thicker yarn would sacrifice the silk-like hand feel.

We then mercerize this yarn — a chemical bath under tension that permanently swells each fiber, increasing luster, strength, and dye uptake by up to 30%. The result is a yarn that looks brighter, feels smoother, and lasts longer than any untreated alternative.

Ne 50/2

Yarn Count

2-Ply Twisted

Ply

100% Pima Cotton

Fiber

Mercerized

Treatment

35–40mm (Extra Long Staple)

Staple Length

+30% post-mercerization

Luster Gain

Side by Side

Fabric Comparison

PropertyInterlockDiagonalLyocellPerformanceSupima / PiquéMilano / DFCashmere
CollectionBase · OzoneBase · OzoneBaseOnyxSignalSignalForm
Weight (GSM)340480–540180200–320220–300320–400380–520
ConstructionDouble-knit interlocked3-thread diagonalSingle jerseyBonded tech jerseyCompact-spun piquéMilano / double-faceMulti-method atelier
Primary FiberPima CottonPima CottonLyocell / CottonPolyamide-CottonSupima CottonMerino-PimaCashmere blends
FeelDense, smoothArchitectural, warmSilky, lightTechnical, stretchLuminous, refinedTailored drapeUltra-soft, weighted
Pilling Resistance★★★★★★★★★★★★★★☆★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★☆
Shape Retention★★★★★★★★★★★★★★☆★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★★

Quality Control

Precision Standards

8–14

Hand Inspections

Each garment passes through 8 to 14 individual hand inspection checkpoints before it earns the True Base 96 label.

100%

Traceability

From Pima fields to your hands — every fiber is traceable through our vertically integrated supply chain.

30+

Years of Refinement

Three decades of manufacturing culture, distilled into every stitch. This isn't our first generation of product. It's our best.

We don't design clothes. We solve textile problems.

True Base 96

Fabric Engineering | True Base 96